Food with a view… Saffron polenta chips with sorrel aioli, left, and salmon rillete with eggpalnt caponata and rustic bread. Photo by Gary Schafer
Elevated 175 metres above the city, with sweeping views of the capital and several national icons, it’s a stunner of a place to dine in any season.
Onred, the fine-dining restaurant on the top level of the carousel structure at Red Hill, has been going strong since late 2007. And now the owners – brother and sister team Jodi and Ben Johnson – have taken over the café underneath.
It’s affectionately called Little Brother and is a “younger, fresher and more light-hearted approach” to dining.
The place has been given a nice makeover with bar seating along the circular window for maximum views. Cosy cushions are scattered about the place, some new furniture installed and a lick of paint applied. The outside is enjoying the addition of stylish and comfy mint and chocolate brown chairs.
I walked up one side of the nature park and friends up the other to meet on top for brunch. It was a gorgeous day and the coffee at Little Brother went down well after our efforts.
The main items on Little Brother’s brunch menu range from $13 for toasted bircher muesli with natural yoghurt, strawberries and blueberries to $19 for fried, poached or scrambled eggs on toast with bacon, chipolatas and tomato.
The wild mushrooms on toast with asparagus, whipped goat’s cheese and tomato ($17) was one dish selected. We thought the mushrooms looked a bit pale on the plate but my friend reported the dish was tasty and the goat’s cheese a super addition.
Two of us ordered, partly on a staff recommendation, the poached egg on sweet potato and beetroot fritter with smoked salmon, spinach and horseradish cream ($17).
It was a colourful dish and the eggs were cooked to perfection (not too runny, not too hard). The salmon was lovely and horseradish cream nicely balanced. Neither of us was fussy on the bland beetroot fritter agreeing it needed a major injection of seasoning or spices. Indeed, my friend thought Moroccan-inspired spices would be fun.
Brioche French toast with double cream and cherries ($14) and eggs Benedict with ham or salmon ($17) are also on the brunch menu.
Another positive change for diners is the adjusted hours. Little Brother is now open from 11am until late Thursday and Friday and 9.20am until late Saturday and Sunday.
I’m delighted the Johnsons are at the helm of Little Brother. The former operation was super tired and the coffee hit and miss. We’ve already made plans to head up Red Hill again now that daylight savings is with us to give lunch or dinner a go.
50 Red Hill Drive. Red Hill Lookout. Call 6273 1166.
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